Repairs and maintenance
We continue to be committed to providing services to our customers and in light of the latest Government advice relating to Coronavirus (COVID-19) we’re operating an emergency only repairs service to make sure you’re safe and we will continue to prioritise calls as they come in.
If you have repairs which are not an emergency, we ask for your patience and that you do not report these to us at this time.
If you have an emergency repair, you should contact 0300 123 2221.
What is classed as an emergency?
We’re classifying an emergency repair as the following:
• No electric power to the property. Please check this is not a power cut first
• Dangerous electrical fault
• Uncontainable flood in the property
• Blocked drains resulting in sewage backing up in to the property
• Gas leak, including the report of a carbon monoxide detector sounding or an incident
• Unable to flush the toilet if there is just one toilet in the property
• No heating if a resident is over 65 or vulnerable in terms of ill health
• No heating at any time to all Independent Living Schemes
• The property is insecure
• Faulty mains wired or battery operated smoke alarm
• Boarding up broken ground floor windows
• No hot water
• Trip hazard on communal walkway or stairwell
• Defective bannister or stair rail
• Defective lighting in a communal hallway
I am due to have improvement work carried out in my home
We’re scaling back our planned maintenance and improvement works but we will be finishing the work we’ve already started where we are able to within government guidelines. We have been in touch with all residents directly affected and as soon as we are able to, we’ll continue with our planned works programmes.
We are following the strict social distancing advice and we would ask that you do not approach our contractors while they continue to work in or around your homes.
Annual servicing / safety checks
Your safety is our first priority so we still need to keep up with essential safety checks in your home like your annual gas safety check and electrical wiring testing. This is to make sure your home is safe. If you receive an appointment and are currently self-isolating or would prefer us not to attend at the moment, please get in touch and we will rearrange your appointment.
If you live in a block of flats we will also continue to check the equipment, such as lifts, water tanks, fire detection and alarms, shared heating and hot water systems and electrics. Again, these checks are important to make sure your home stays safe and do still need to continue.
We’re also continuing with fire safety checks as normal to make sure our systems are working as they should be and we’ll carry out essential repairs if required.
The operatives and contractors who are visiting your homes to check they are safe will be following the Government guidance, so they will be maintaining a 2 metre distance, washing their hands regularly and wearing appropriate personal protective equipment to carry out this work
Please let our contractors do their job
The operatives and contractors who are visiting will be following the Government guidance, so they will be maintaining a 2 metre distance, washing their hands regularly and wearing appropriate personal protective equipment to carry out this work.
Please do not approach them.
They're there to do a specific job and want to maintain social distancing rules themselves.
To help you, we have compiled a list DIY Repair videos to help you carry out minor repairs in your own homes.
Tap washer replacement
To start, turn off the mains water supply by turning the main stopcock until your tap runs dry. If you are changing the washer on hot taps, you must also turn the immersion heater and boiler off.
Put the plug into the plug-hole of the sink to prevent losing the washer or any tap components when dismantling it. Unscrew the top plate of the tap. If you can’t do this by hand, use a wrench and protect the tap with a cloth first.
Some taps have a body cover, which you will need to remove before you can unscrew the top section (or stem) of the tap to access the washer underneath. Secure the tap with another wrench while you remove this section.
The washer is underneath this and it will either be pressed into place or held in position with a nut. Use a screwdriver to release it then clean the stem before fitting the new washer.
Reassemble the tap, take the plug out of the sink and turn on the water supply to test the tap.
Unblocking a basin or sink
Step 1: Plunger
Place the plunger over the plughole, and ensure a seal is formed, then drive the handle down and up in a pumping action. You’ll know the blockage is clear when you fill the sink up and it drains quickly.
Step 2: Blast it out
Sometimes a hard burst of water can push out whatever is blocking your sink. Take a plastic milk bottle or 2-litre drink bottle, fill it with hot water, tip it upside down with the bottle hole against the plughole, and squeeze as hard as you can. The fast, directed flow of water may well fix the problem.
Step 3: Down the drain
Sometimes a plunger can’t unblock the sink so you need to do something to break down the blockage. There are a lot of hardcore drain unblocking products on the market, and though they will often get the job done they’re pretty harsh, and can linger in the drain and around your sink too. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions.
Step 4: Baking Soda and Vinegar
A more friendly solution to unblocking a sink uses a simple mix of baking soda and vinegar. First, pour a load of baking powder down your plughole. Then tip in the vinegar. You’ll hear a lot of fizzing, and may even get some froth coming back up the plughole. Once the chemical reaction subsides tip some hot water down to flush the pipe through.
Step 5: Bleach
If that doesn’t work you can also use bleach to dissolve blockages. The best approach with bleach is to pour some through the plughole last thing at night and then flush with hot water in the morning.
Step 6: U Bend Clearing
Most blocked sinks happen because the U bend gets clogged up, and sometimes the only solution is to remove the U bend and clear it out by hand. To do this you’ll need:
- Small bucket or dish
- Plumber’s tape (PTFE Tape)
- Wire coat hanger
Look under your sink and find the U bend, it’s the first bend in the pipe immediately below the plughole. Put your bucket or dish under the U bend and carefully unscrew the section of pipe. The U bend has two sets of threads, one at either end. As you loosen them any backed up water will drain out, so take your time. Once the flow of water has stopped, remove the U bend and use the wire coat hanger to clean out the inside of the pipe, you can also use a dishcloth and warm water to help clean everything out.
Once it’s all clean, fix the U bend back into place, using plumber’s tape to make it watertight if needed. Run the tap to make sure the U bend is watertight.
Resetting a trip switch
Modern electric circuits are fitted with circuit breakers called trip switches. If there’s a problem with your electrics, a switch is tripped and the circuit is broken.
All of the fuses or trip switches are found in the consumer unit or fuse box.
A trip switch or button usually operates because:
- There are too many appliances on a circuit and it’s overloaded
- an appliance is faulty or hasn’t been used properly, for example a kettle has been over-filled or a toaster not cleaned
- water has leaked into a circuit
- a light bulb has blown
- there’s a problem with your immersion heater
Always have a torch handy in case you have a power failure.
If there’s a problem with one of your electrical appliances, leave it unplugged and get a qualified electrician or service engineer to check it.
If there’s a problem with your wall or ceiling light, keep it switched off (even put some tape over the switch) and let us know straight away.
Make sure your hands are dry when you touch electrical fittings.
Resetting the trip switch
Open the cover on the consumer unit so that you can get to the trip switches.
Check which switches have tripped to the OFF position and which rooms (circuits) have problems.
Put these switches back to the ON position.
Stop tap location
Your internal stop tap is usually found near to where your water supply pipe enters into your home.
Most common places to find your inside stop tap are:
- Under the kitchen sink
- Kitchen cupboard
- WC or cloakroom
- Garage or utility room
- Under the stairs
It is important that you are aware of where your internal stop tap is in case there is an emergency and you need to turn off the water.
Internal stop taps aren’t used very often so it is worth checking regularly to make sure it's working properly.
Replacing a toilet seat
Wearing gloves, remove the old seat and any old fittings. Every seat is different, but the release screws are usually found at the back of the seat or on the underside of the bowl rim.
Unscrew the old fittings (you may need a wrench and screwdriver to do this) and then remove the seat
Assemble the fittings for the new toilet seat. Because every seat is different, take time to read the manufacturer’s instructions.
Attach the new fittings through the bolt holes in the rim and hand tighten. Do not over tighten, as you will need to adjust them when the seat is on.
Click on the bolt caps and place the new seat in position. Line up with the bolts and ensure the seat is centred on the bowl before tightening.
Hand tighten the bolts or use a wrench if necessary.
Unblocking a toilet
Try pushing a flexible drain cleaning wire down the WC pan.
If possible, ask someone to observe the drain chamber while you are doing this to see if the item causing the blockage emerges. Anything emerging that may have caused the blockage should be removed.
It’s worth using a plunger.
A chemical drain cleaner or caustic soda may help, but you must follow the instructions carefully and remember these products need to be handled safely.
Always use rubber gloves.
Using a Plunger
- Try using a plunger to unblock the toilet. Most people have a cup shaped plunger but this does not always work and can be a bit messy. Toilets bowls benefit from a specialist flange shaped or a ball shaped plunger. Both these types of plunger have a bottom which is shaped to seal the opening in the bottom of the toilet bowl. This seal action as you plunge creates the necessary vacuum and pressure and is more effective.
- Another useful tip is to consider draining water from your toilet pan. If the water level in the pan of your WC is high, try using any old container to bale out the water. You can also try pouring hot or boiling water down the pan as an alternative to using caustic soda. Often this can be helpful and will break down whatever is blocking your waste pipe.
Changing a tube light bulb
Before you start, cut off all power. You cannot ensure your safety by simply turning the switch off at the wall.
The first step in replacing a fluorescent bulb is knowing how to be safe. Fluorescent bulbs are fragile and become very brittle once burnt out, making them easy to break or shatter. If you do happen to break a bulb, be aware that it contains mercury. When cleaning up a broken bulb, use gloves and always wear shoes.
Measure the full length of the bulb from end to end with your measuring tape to determine the correct length of replacement bulb required. Since these bulbs come in many lengths, measuring before you purchase the new bulb can save a return trip to the shop.
Now that you know what length of bulb to buy, you also need to know which type of replacement bulb you need. To determine the type, look at the lamp to confirm if it is a bi-pin lamp or single-pin lamp. A bi-pin or two-pin lamp will have contact pins on each end of the fluorescent bulb. The pins extend from each end of the light bulb and fit into a socket on either end of the lamp. A single-pin lamp will only have one contact pin extending from one end of the bulb.
Installing the new bulb is simply the reverse of removing the old one. If the lamp is a bi-pin lamp, you will need to insert both contact pins to the end sockets and then rotate the fluorescent bulb clockwise to lock it into the lamp. If the lamp is a single-pin lamp, you will need to insert the contact pin into the socket and then push the fluorescent bulb upward to lock it into the lamp. After installation of the new bulb is complete, be sure to dispose of the old bulb properly and safely.
Changing a tube light starter
If the tube light flickers, works intermittently or takes a long time to illuminate, then the issue is caused by faulty / old fluorescent starter and it will need to be replaced.
Determine the correct starter for the light. Check the existing starter wattage (You may need to remove the bulb to access the starter) to ensure the right replacement is purchased to suit the light fitting.
Once you have the correct replacement fluorescent starter, you will need to start by removing the bulb to replace it. The bulb will usually need to be removed because the starter is located directly above it. If your light has more than one bulb, you will find that each one has its own starter to make it work.
Withdraw the bulb by twisting it out of the sockets at either end and descending the ladder to carefully lay it in a safe place.
The existing starter can be twisted to remove it from its socket, which should be to the right, so twist and pull the starter to withdraw it completely.
The fluorescent starter which has been removed can be discarded. Install the new starter by reversing the removal method.